Frequently Asked Questions


  • How do I determine which ECU I have?
  • Will a tune delete my CEL? (Check Engine Light)
    • We can disable most every CEL on most every vehicle, but we need to know exactly which CEL needs to be disabled. Please contact us to get setup.
    • Not all CEL are equal. First, the cause of the CEL should be found and fixed (if possible) before being disabled.
  • How do I perform a “stomp test”, and what do the codes mean?
  • eBay says a chip will give my completely stock car +9,000hp and +9,000tq. Why do eBay chips give more power than yours?
    • They don’t — they are lying to you. eBay chips are as basic as they come, and almost never outperform a proper tune. See why choose sssquid.
    • Use our dyno simulator to test out different mods!
  • Resetting ECU Learning


  • Can I chip my ODB-2 ECU?
    • While it’s possible to chip an OBD-2 ECU, it requires desoldering an SMD (Surface Mounted Device) EEPROM, then soldering in a specific socket to accept a chip.
    • This method is incredibly uncommon, as an ODB-2 flash is quicker, cheaper, easier, and more reliable.
  • Do you offer ODB-2 reflash services?
    • We sure do! See here!
      • We prefer to flash OBD-2 in-person for part and working order verification — just in-case tech support is required.
      • However, we do offer “ship-in-reflashing”, or “SIR“. Similar to an OTN (over-the-net) chip, a SIR tune will be the best possible tune we can provide without having direct access to the vehicle.
  • Are there benefits to ODB-2 reflashing?
    • Aside from the standard SSSQUID power and economy gains, you’ll also have the opportunity to log data during normal operation, send that to us, and receive a fully customized tune. Please contact us to get setup!


  • What  size  injectors do I need?
  • What’s the difference between the octane choices (like 87, 89, or 93)? Is one better than the other?
    • Octane ratings refer to the rate at which your fuel mixture combusts; in other words, the difficulty in which the fuel mixture will ignite. A fuel with a higher AKI (anti-knock index) or RON (research octane number) is commonly referred to as a higher octane fuel. As we decrease the rate at which the fuel combusts, we increase the range over which the combustion phase produces thermodynamic force against the piston. Tuned correctly, a higher octane rated fuel will have the potential for a greater efficiency of material used to engine stroke — which means more HP/TQ.
    • However, on some builds, such as forced induction or high compression, a higher octane fuel becomes necessary to combat pre-detonation — where residual heat coupled with extreme compression causes the air/fuel mixture to combust before the spark plug is fired, or cause the mixture to combust too quickly and act against the piston and crankshaft. If you are unsure about any of this, please contact us with any questions!
  • If I order a tune for 93 AKI (octane), can I run a lower rating?
    • All of our tunes are completely reworked, from idle to WOT to match your mods, fuel choice, and goals. While running one rating lower (i.e. 89 with a 91 tune) if you are driving calmly is generally considered okay, running anything more than R_2 = R_1 – 2 (eg 93 – 2 = 91) can cause issue, even at part throttle, as everything from ignition timing to fueling is adjusted at every tune point.
    • On a modern, OBD-2 vehicle with knock sensors and dynamic ignition adjustment, this is generally considered more acceptable, but still not ideal. However, on older vehicles (mostly pre-1996) without knock sensors, running a lower octane-rated fuel can be detrimental and dangerous.
  • What about running a higher rating on a lower tune (eg. 93 oct fuel with an 87 oct tune)? Will I get more power?
    • This depends upon your vehicle. On OBD-2 vehicles and those with knock-controlled dynamic advance, running a higher octane may allow for more dynamic ECU advance and may offer a slight bump. However, on older vehicles (mostly pre-1996) with OBD-1 or earlier ECUs without dynamic knock advance, running a higher octane may actually decrease your power as the dynamic compression points of the combustion phase have now changed, and more of the combustion phase may be wasted.
  • Do I need to run 93?
    • This depends on about a billion factors. A vehicle with high compression or that is forced induction requires a higher octane fuel (91+) to combat pre-detonation and knock. However, a stock E30 325i does not necessarily need more than an 87 octane rating, and has very little to gain from 93 or above without doing supporting mods.
    • For modified, high compression, or F/I vehicles — we recommend at least 91, with 93 being the optimal pump octane.
    • For mostly-stock, standard compression vehicles — we recommend at least 89, with 91 offering the best trade-off in cost-to-efficiency.
  • What’s the difference between “AKI” and “RON”?
    • AKI (Anti-Knock Index) and RON (Research Octane Number) are two different methods of classifying fuel by its combustion resistance.
    • The United States of America and Canada use AKI ratings, while most of the rest of the world use RON ratings, such as Australia and the United Kingdom, as well as almost all Countries in South America, Africa, and Asia.
    • We display both AKI and RON ratings on tune configuration pages, usually formatted as “[AKI] ([RON])”.
  • I want to add a high flow fuel pump to my car for more power!
    • Fuel pumps do not add more power.
  • I want to add a high flow fuel pump to my stock E30!
    • Do not do this! The stock 325i E30 pump supports 230-280 WHp depending on your setup.
    • Adding a higher flowing pump will:
      • wear the pump quicker
      • wear the FPR quicker
      • wear the filter and lines quicker
      • add excessive heat to fuel tank and fuel
      • add excessive fuel pressure which throws off your tune
    • ONLY add a pump if it’s necessary to keep up with the fuel requirements of your engine!
    • Summit Racing has a great article on choosing a fuel pump. It can be viewed here:
  • Can you tune for off-throttle “burble” or “pop-pop”?
    • On most every vehicle, yes. And yes, this includes the BMW M20B20/3/5 and M30B34/5 engines.
    • This increases the engine breaking effect, which many people consider to “ruin” off-throttle response for daily driving.
    • Mild burble is generally considered acceptable, but preferably with no catalytic converter.
      • I want aggressive and loud popping with the possibility of flame!!
        • Off-throttle pops and flames only wear your engine, gaskets, and sensors quicker, and will lead to earlier engine failure.
        • If running a catalytic converter, DO NOT DO THIS. The heat can approach 1500’f — well above the 1200’f failure point of a catalytic converter. Simply a few seconds of temperatures over 1200’f will destroy a catalytic converter.
      • What about WRC cars and the $2.5million dollar Le Mans Ford GT40 or the $75,000 Audi S7? They burble and pop!
        • Yes, you are correct, but each of these cars is equipped with a specific system that does this for a reason. On race cars (like Le Mans and WRC vehicles, whose engines only need to last a single race or a few events), a secondary throttle valve is installed, and often an auxiliary injector(s) is installed in the exhaust manifold in order to specifically ignite fuel outside of the engine cylinders, but before the turbocharger, in order to generate force against the turbine. This keeps the turbine spinning and charge-pipe pressure up, even when your foot is off-throttle. We recommend doing an internet search for “anti-lag system”.
        • On the Audi, an auxiliary injector is installed in the exhaust system that dumps fuel into a relatively safe spot to generate the burble sound as the exhaust gas gradually ignites the fresh fuel throughout the system. (Similarly, many of the YouTube videos you see of cars shooting huge flames have these systems, and this does not happen within the tune)
        • Without these systems, burble will directly affect off-throttle reaction in order to ignite fuel as it exits the cylinder. Unfortunately this can lead to both increased intake/exhaust manifold back-pressure, and can ruin quick off-on-throttle response. This also means the ignition event is at least partially happens against the action of the piston (as it moves toward the exhaust valve). So, rather than engine braking happening because of the vacuum generated by pulling air into the cylinder from a mostly-closed throttle valve, engine braking is accomplished by directly firing against the piston’s movement. This both increases the engine braking effect and wears your engine quicker, possibly leading to damaged components over time.
  • I want to run E85 because the internet tells me it’ll add 8723542834 hp!
    • If you are running a stock naturally aspirated vehicle, this is most likely wrong! E85 (or fuel that is around 85% ethanol) contains 30% less energy content that ethanol-free fuel. E85 will give most users lower MPG and lower HP than E-free or E10 fuel, especially those on engines and electronics not designed for flex-fuel from the factory.
    • In addition, for every 1-unit of gasoline your car would use to make x power level, your car now must use 1.3-units of E85 to make the same power level x.
  • Then who should use E85?
    • Anyone that wants to use a renewable resource to power their vehicle.
    • Anyone running high amounts of compression or forced induction positive pressure
      • E85’s greatest attribute is that it has a combustion phase equivalent to an AKI (Anti-Knock Index) of around 108-112, and its combustion phase is cooler than that of traditional gasoline. This means we can give knock-limited vehicles more timing and cooler temps, and this also often means more positive pressure (for F/I vehicles). This leads to more power!
      • This is not the case for your 150 WHP 1980-something lower compression naturally aspirated BMW. You will see higher numbers going with E-free or E10 fuel.
  • Fuel Cut-off and Reinstatement
    • We have received a few requests for a softer “off-throttle” operation on a few vehicles. This is generally desirable for people that live in slow-traffic areas (such as: New York, Paris, London, Tokyo, or Sydney). It is possible for this feature to be added, but by request only. Please contact us to get setup.
      • By default, there is a rather quick release in off-throttle operation, which makes for quick deceleration response. However some people prefer a softer off-throttle response when driving in heavy traffic and at low speeds, as is normal with modern, electronic-throttle vehicles.
      • Please note: utilizing a softer off-throttle response will add extra fuel to your exhaust system, which can lead to deceleration burble and quicker catalytic converter failure over time. While not always the case, excess fuel can build-up in, or combust against the catalytic converter, causing damage.


  • I have a tune I bought [x] years ago, but recently I installed a [modification], do I really have to buy a whole new tune?
    • No way, Jose! We offer reflashes of any SSSQUID Chip at steep discounts. There’s no need to fork out a fistful of dollars each time you make a change that requires a retune.
    • Please see:
  • My current tune is stage (0.5/1.0), but I’m adding an aftermarket camshaft, do I have to get retuned?
    • This is a tricky question. If the camshaft you install is close enough to the original, a retune is not strictly necessary. However, the larger the variation of duration and/or lift profile of the camshaft installed over the stock unit, the more trouble you’ll run into without a retune. This is especially evident at idle. We have tried to price our tune reflashes so any upgrade that requires a retune won’t break the bank.
  • I have a chip for [Vehicle 1], but I bought [Vehicle 2], can I still get a reflash?
    • The reflash deal is valid for the same engine. If you need a different tune for a different engine, then a reflash is not applicable. Please contact us either way, we are often willing to work with customers!
  • Do you ever offer software updates?
    • We are a full software and mechanical engineering company, which means we often perform base software (firmware) updates and revisions, as well as changing integral control functions for the better. We offer inexpensive reflash deals to update your chip-tunes to the latest software versions. Please read more here:


  • I am looking to build an e30 “327i” with ETA 2.7L block and 325i 2.5L head, what do I need?
    • This question requires a rather intense answer, so instead we recommend reading over the community information available on various forums and wikis around the internet. The parts required vary depending upon your vehicle year and your goals, and there are quite a few options to choose between. We believe it would be most beneficial to read through others’ experiences to determine what you desire for yourself. A great thread on this subject is here:
  • You used to offer MAF conversion tunes for the M20 and M30, what happened?
    • There are currently no true MAF conversions on the market that convert the MAF signal into something that the stock Motronic ECU is capable of reading correctly. While we can still tune for a variety of MAFs, there will be a superior solution soon. Please see the E30 MAF CONVERSION news page.
      • But what about the Miller MAF Conversion?
        • DO NOT USE THIS ITEM. It is not a true MAF conversion, and is just a stock MAF with a convenient connection butt, but has no hardware or software for any conversion of the MAF signal into something that the ECU is expecting to see. Using this item, especially with the included tune, artificially changes many integral control thresholds and is quite dangerous for your vehicle. We deal with multiple vehicles a year that have failed from the MillerMAF and/or WAR chip. Thus, we must recommend against using these particular items.
  • I want to convert my E30 to turbo, but I have a few questions….
    • We are working on a full turbo write-up! Until then, please CONTACT US with any questions you may have.


  • How do I do (____) with my MegaSquirt?
    • Check over the Mega Manual first, and if you can’t find an answer, feel free to shoot us an email!
  • Do you tune MegaSquirt?
    • Absolutely! We also offer Plug-and-Play MegaSquirt units for a number of vehicles that are available pre-tuned.
  • I bought a MegaSquirt from (____), but it was built by monkeys, can you repair it?
    • While we do offer MegaSquirt repair services, turnaround times for repairs is often weeks as our workload is almost always beyond capacity. If you are interested, please contact us!


  • My vehicle is equipped with EWS/EWS-II, will your chip delete this function?
    • By default the EWS coding is disabled or removed on all chips. For EWS-II however (282 ECU, 413 Silver ECU) you may still need to disconnect the EWS-II control unit by either snipping the signal wire (413: Pin 66 green wire), or by disconnecting the control unit completely.
    • EWS can be retained ONLY IF you can provide us with an ECU or original chip that matches the key fob and EWS module you are currently using. With the original components, we can pull the secret, individual code and implement that into your new tune.


  • SSSQUID is proud to offer an UNLIMITED LIFETIME warranty on many items and tunes, of which you can read more about in the link below:


  • We offer a variety of sponsorships for a variety of vehicles. You can find out more, and apply, at the link below:

Points and Rewards

  • Our SSSQUID SSSQUAD REWARDSSS program has ended. Thank you to all that participated.


  • Do you offer regular sales or discounts?
    • We offer seasonal sales, refurbished and blemished units, and other deals. Keep checking back or get signed up for our email-blast on the contact us page!


  • Which countries do you sell to?
    • We sell to any country except for: Iran, North Korea, and Syria. This is due to shipping restrictions on certain goods and complicated import/export duty systems.
    • Due to COVID, shipping to many countries is difficult or outright halted. If you are unsure if your country has enacted import restrictions against the United States, please contact us!
  • What do the extra S’s stand for in “SSSQUID”?
    • That’s a Super Secret! We would just like to be clear that this has nothing to do with any Nazi BS. If you are a nazi, neo-nazi, dalek, ISIS, klansmen, or any other race/religion supremacist, DO NOT BUY FROM US. We support a world for all peaceful peoples, and reserve the right to deny service to anyone.